Thursday, December 13, 2007
Tillie's puppies are growing up so fast! Here are their 5 1/2 week pictures...you will notice that the little sable boy is not sable. He is a black 'n' tan! And Tessa sure is adorable among the gold Christmas bells!!
Debbie said that it was hard taking the pictures by herself, with daughter Darla away at college in South Carolina! A couple of the puppies got a little too close to the camera...they were just wanting their "Cockapoo Hug"!
p.s. Tillie's Black 'n' Tan boy is named Max and her 1st Black 'n' White boy with the blue duck is Clancy!
Tuesday, December 04, 2007
Send a photo of your Starlo's Cockapoo to firstname.lastname@example.org. Let us know if you want the whole picture or a cutout version and what product you want. You will be notified when they are ready.
In PJ's CafePress Gift Shoppe we are using the doggie t-shirt to set up this section. All the products that are available in the Starlo's Cockapoo Hugs section will be made available after the image has been created and agreed upon!
p.s. Let me know if you want "Cockapoo Hugs" or your Cockapoos' name included in the image.
Look for the personalize with your Starlo's Cockapoo section coming soon!!!
Thursday, November 29, 2007
Sunday, November 25, 2007
Hi Debbie, How are you? Thought you might enjoy a photo of Charlie. He is 2 1/2 now and such a large part of our life. The twins are 18 months old and he is so good with them. We are thinking of another cockapoo. My husband likes the Apricot color. Any thoughts?
Sunday, November 18, 2007
He was still at home playing with his 2 brothers and 4 sisters. Henry has a buff brother (so the picture to the left might be him...we are checking!!) Follow the link above to see pictures of Henry with his new family!!!
UPDATE: I received an email from Henry's new family and I did have a picture of Henry's brother. Now this is a picture of Henry at 5 1/2 weeks old!
Friday, November 09, 2007
Tuesday, November 06, 2007
Here is a slideshow of Starlo's newest family. Debbie reports that Tillie and babies are doing fine!
Sunday, November 04, 2007
Saturday, November 03, 2007
The Great Rock Fortress
Copyright February 28, 1989
Many times Tygh and Paleo had talked of doing just such a thing if ever trouble was to come to their camp. Tygh soon found Paleo. He caught Paleo's eye and Paleo knew tight away what he must do. He began to gather supplies. He would have to explain to India later why they had to leave so suddenly. Very quietly they slipped out of camp. They knew that they had to be very far from camp before they were missed.
Tygh might still be in some danger from these men but it was his duty to protect his family. He was doing what was best for them. He would not rest until these men left his camp. Then he hoped to meet up with his family again in the Northwoods. They were now on their way to a place that they were told that the mountains would meet with a dry desert. Here on this desert they would find a large rock fortress. Inside this fortress they would find safety.
There had been so many mountains to climb, so many, many streams to cross and they were now growing very tired. Paleo knew that they must keep moving until he could lead them all to a safe new home.
Thursday, November 01, 2007
The "Authors go GONZO! Carnival" is slated for November 5, 2007. "COME ONE, COME ALL!!!" This carnival is your opportunity to share about the book(s) you have written or are in the process of writing. Let us know who your favorite author is, which book or book series holds that special place on your bookshelf or what book based movie, in your opinion, is not as good as the book! This carnival is for those of us who love to read a good book and want to share our opinion. Tell everyone about this carnival of reading fun...pun intended!
Wednesday, October 31, 2007
Tuesday, October 30, 2007
Tuesday, October 23, 2007
Monday, October 15, 2007
Wednesday, October 03, 2007
Starlo's Kennels is proud to introduce a new addition to the family! Starlo's Sugar-n-Spice is an adorable little brown sable, 3rd generation CCA American Cockapoo! Her lineage goes back to Starlo's Oreo and Starlo's Lil Jingle Bell. Debbie says that "She is adjusting fantastic, she has already claimed the doggie bed under my computer. She follows me from room to room." Although, when I talked with Debbie on the phone, Spice was in Debbie's lap and Debbie was using Spices' doggie bed for a foot warmer!
Tuesday, October 02, 2007
Sunday, September 30, 2007
Saturday, September 22, 2007
There are only seven Starlo's Cockapoo puppies left! The oldest puppy is a 6 month old Red 'n' White Male out of Starlo's Lilly 'n' Starlo's Trapper Brown. In the slide show he is 13 weeks old.
Here he is at 5 1/2 weeks old. More pictures of this little guy to come!!!
Starlo's Jamie Lynn has three little guys that are 2 months old, two Blacks and a Black 'n' Tan. And Maggie Mae's two little black females and a chocolate female are only a month old. (All recent pictures)
Contact Debbie to bring one of these little ones into your home! Let Debbie know that you saw her little ones on her blog!!!
Sunday, September 09, 2007
- Starlo's Opal 'n' Starlo's Bam Bam are expecting a 2nd generation litter on October 22nd.
- While Starlo's Tillie 'n' Starlo's Lil Jingle Bell look forward to their 1st generation Cockapoos on November 5
- and Starlo's Sara Lee 'n' Starlo's Jim Dandy have to wait till November 10th to see their 1st generation litter!!
Use this link to connect to Starlo's Portfolio page to see their portraits. Just as soon as Debbie gets me pictures of Starlo's Tillie and Starlo's Sara Lee I will let you know that their portraits are posted on the website as well.
Friday, September 07, 2007
Tuesday, August 14, 2007
Good Morning, Starlo's Maggie Mae has 5 beautiful girls:
1st Chocolate/white female at 2:24 am weight 6 3/8 oz
Monday, August 13, 2007
Each post will contain the date the post was published, the title, an article, a picture and the footer. In the footer of each post you will find information that will tell you who wrote the post, at what time the post was published, the number of comments and a hyperlink that will list the links to this particular post. The second line contains the labels that were attached to the post to aid in searching for a particular post on the blog. Example:
Posted by Janey Loree at 12:30 PM To leave a comment, click on the "7 comments" link. (The number of comments will automatically change when you publish your comment.) This will open a new window in which you will be able to leave a comment. For the purpose of this post I will concentrate on those who do not have a blogger account. After you type your comment, make sure that the radio button next to anonymous is selected and click on the orange "Publish Your Comment" button. You will notice at the top of the comment window the following: "Your comment has been saved. It may take a moment for your comment to appear on the site." Your comment will be published to the comment section along with the date, time and a trash can. Example:
1 CommentClose this window Jump to comment form The only way to edit your comment is to click on the trash can. This will open a new window where you will need to make sure that the "remove forever?" check box is checked before clicking on "Delete Comment" button. At this point you are ready to retype your comment. This blog is set up to send your comment to Debbie where she will be notified that your comment has been published to her blog!
The posts in the left hand column will scroll down as new posts are added, while the information in the right hand column stays visible at all times. When you click on the buttons such as the BLOG VILLAGE button you will be voting for Starlo's Cockapoos on that particular Top 100 List. This goes for each of the Blog Directory buttons as well.
Among information about which blogs Starlo's Cockapoos considers great reading, a warning label, examples of different colors of Starlo's Cockapoos you will find the links to older post in the Blog Archive section.
Editor's note: Starlo's Paw Prints comes up on the first page of Google Search at number 2, 3 and 10 when the search term is "Cockapoo blogs"!
Thursday, August 09, 2007
Saturday, July 21, 2007
I am sending this email to you to let you know that your picture(s) that you sent of your Starlos Cockapoo has been added to the website and to share others with you. The following list includes the newest additions:
· Gus and Max running in sync on the Cockapoo Families Page
· Sully ‘n’ Fenway on the Red ‘n’ White Page
· Running Bear ‘n’ Pokie on the Cockapoo Families Page
· Penguin, Honey, Comet, Gus & Max on the Cockapoo Families Page
· Dash Maxfield on the Chocolate ‘n’ White Page
· Baloo Nicholisen on the Black ‘n’ Tan Page
· Luke Korman on the Buff Page
· Abby & Roxie Dillon on the Cockapoo Families Page
· Boo, Cooper, Hershey & Sully on the Cocker Spaniel Page
· Jia Sigona on the Buff ‘n’ White Page
· Zoe on the Black ‘n’ White Page
· Talula Gocke on the White Page
· Henry Yalcin on the Buff ‘n’ White Page
· Lucy Beiderman on the Sable ‘n’ White Page
· Chloe Mako on the Red Page
Other links of interest:
For available puppy information, contact Owner/Breeder Debbie Cowdrey.
To view her website...go to www.starloscockapoos.com.
Home of Starlo’s CCA American Cockapoos TM
Starlo's Cockapoos, PO Box 2, Christmas Valley, OR 97641
Tuesday, July 03, 2007
The newest little stars at Starlos Ranch include three adorable little girls. Their parents, Starlo's Fancy Fanny and Starlo's Lil Jingle Bell, couldn't be prouder! The girls are 15 days old already!! And as Jan from The Poodle (and Dog) Blog has pointed out...remember to take care of your dogs this 4th of July, be aware if they are frightened of the fireworks or not!
Thursday, June 28, 2007
Thursday, June 21, 2007
15. RECOMMENDED READING:
All books and tapes can be ordered from Amazon.com through the Cockapoo Club of America Website and the Club gets a portion of the sale. www.cockapooclub.com
"THE PUPPY REPORT" by Larry Shook, $4.95
"The Art of Raising a Puppy", by the Monks of New Skeet, $21.95
"Cockapoo*", by Mary D. Foley**, $14.95 plus $2.95 S/H
*Starlo's Cockapoos are pictured in this very first book about Cockapoos!
**Mary D. Foley is the founder of the Cockapoo Club of America
Wednesday, June 20, 2007
14. PREVENTING DOG "SEPARATION ANXIETY" SYNDROME:
To get your pup used to staying alone, leave him in his crate and go off for varying periods of time, (whether you need to or not), starting with short periods and extending the time. Do not make a big fuss over him when leaving or returning (this is also the way to treat submissive urination). Turning on the radio to classical or soft music or a talk show is comforting.
Owners, especially of small cute fuzzy, appealing dogs like Cockapoos tend to forget they are dogs and use the dog to satisfy their need to nurture something to an excessive degree. The owner may have his/her own need satisfied but the dog sometimes becomes a spoiled, overfed, finicky, overly anxious dog with few boundaries. He will not be welcome anywhere because he constantly bothers everyone for attention, marks in their house, mounts peoples legs etc. The owner(s) create a situation where they feel they cannot go anywhere without their precious pooch, and limit their lives since dogs cannot go everywhere. You all know people like this and it is your choice about whether you want to be one of them or show real love for your dog by training him and teaching him manners.
Monday, June 18, 2007
13. THE "COME" COMMAND:
This is the most important command your dog will ever learn and obeying it may save his life. Start out calling your pup "Rover, come" in a small space over a short distance. Praise for coming, sometimes giving a treat and praise, sometimes just praise. Remember Psychology 101, in which Skinner's rats responded and learned better by a schedule of variable and random reinforcement? We believe it applies to dogs too. NEVER, NEVER call the pup
to you to scold him, put him in his crate, groom him or any other mildly unpleasant activity. Always make sure the "coming" results in a pleasant activity. When you need to do something to the pup, go and get him. Do these simple things consistently and you will have a dog that will turn around and come to you in the middle of chasing a rabbit!
Sunday, June 17, 2007
Puppies seem to have a natural affinity for electric wires and telephone cords. You can rub Bitter Apple on the wires and cords if he is around them. It tastes terrible and can also be sprayed on other items that have become a problem. It is also useful on stool if the pup tends to eat the stool. (Very natural for dogs, but disgusting to us). Very soon after getting your puppy, fit him with a buckle type collar and a lightweight 6-ft leash. Collars are only a hazard if they are put on too loosely and the pup can get his jaw caught in it. They should be tight enough so that you can slip only two fingers under it. Again, praise when he walks even a step with the leash on and he will soon get the hang of it. Once he does, occasionally take the pup out to eliminate with his leash on. Do not push, drag or pull the pup. NEVER, NEVER let your dog loose on city streets, no matter how obedient you think he is. It takes but an instant for even a well trained dog to dash across a street after an irresistible cat and be hit by a passing car. Several human foods are lethal when ingested by a dog. It would take 2 ounces of Baker's CHOCOLATE to kill a 20 LB dog. The smaller the dog the less it would take. The same with caffeine as in regular coffee or espresso. ONIONS and their relatives, garlic and chives can also be deadly. MOLDY WALNUTS and ALCOHOL can also be lethal. Seeing your dog drunk and staggering from drinking your beer is not funny or humorous, but most likely will be lethal. Common household plants such as mistletoe, holly, hibiscus, dieffenbachia, ivy, azalea, yew and the runoff from oleander are toxic. Cleaning products, disinfectants, pesticides and rodent killers are toxic if ingested and airborne sprays such as Listerine while wet. Perfumes and colognes, antifreeze, adhesives and glue are toxic and dangerous. Toys with small parts can be a choking hazard and are dangerous as well. Be sure that all members of the family know this.
Saturday, June 16, 2007
Friday, June 15, 2007
11. TOYS AND TREATS:
Puppies love soft squeak toys, rawhide bones, sterilized hollow bones in which you can put an elusive piece of meat or peanut butter, cows hooves, tug of war toys, balls and pigs ears. We do not recommend pigs ears as they are costly, too easily and rapidly eaten, adding unneeded protein to the diet. There are differences of opinion about playing tug of war. Some authorities feel that it makes the dog aggressive. The general guidance is to stand up so
that you are in the dominant position and so that you can control the game. Occasionally the dog may loose a baby tooth that was ready to come out anyway. Fairly gentle play and letting the dog win is OK. NEVER PULL THE PUP OFF THE FLOOR BY ITS TEETH. As a training reward, small bites of beef jerky or liver treats are good. Remember that the dog feels just as rewarded by a small piece as he does from the entire stick. Always make the pup do something to earn the treat. Treats of any kind, along with table food, should not comprise more than 10% of the pup's total dietary intake. i.e., The smaller the dog, the smaller the amount of treats.
Thursday, June 14, 2007
10. BATHING AND GROOMING:
Always comb the pup thoroughly before bathing to assure there are no mats. Bathe your puppy only when necessary to keep from drying out the skin. Once every 2 weeks is probably sufficient. Use a puppy "no more tears" shampoo. Avoid getting shampoo in the eyes and ears, wash in tepid water, rinse well and towel dry all the while speaking softly and calmly to the pup. You can blow dry on medium but get him used to the noise first. Have the dryer on at some distance and give him a couple of treats, then gradually move it toward him. Start with the lowest setting at his rear (they hate it in their faces) and all the time talking to him soothingly and praising him for holding still (help from another person is nice).
Comb your pup daily, or at least twice a week, using a metal comb that has teeth long enough to reach down to the skin. Get him used to having ears inspected and cleaned and fingers in mouth in preparation for brushing teeth later. Praise him when he accepts the combing quietly. Make yourself and the pup comfortable when you do this. You seated in a chair and pup on table or lap. Use table at least occasionally to prepare for a groomer if you intend to use one. Be sure to clean ears with a Q-tip and pull hair out of ear canals. Ask a breeder or a groomer to show you how to do this and also how to trim the toenails). If you get an unpleasant odor or dark wax or the pup shakes its head, it is a good idea to have him checked by a vet. Good preventive cleaning of the ears is extremely important. Grooming is a good time to inspect ears, coat, skin, genitals and to trim nails. After the pup has gotten used to being groomed, introduce a "clipper" noise. If you do not have clippers try an electrical razor or toothbrush. Choose a groomer by recommendation only, and if you can, use one that keeps the dog only a few hours. It is a good idea to bring the pup to a groomer at least once for a bath so he gets used to someone else handling him. If you decide to have your Cockapoo clipped be very specific about what you want and write it down. Most groomers are not familiar with grooming Cockapoos so they do not look like a Cocker or a Poodle. Unless you tell a groomer to scissor the coat to a certain length, they will usually do it the fastest way and use the clippers with a half-inch guard and you have a shaved dog.
Following is a suggested way to groom a Cockapoo:
Leave all hair naturally long (preferred) or if scissoring coat leave it at least 2 inches long. Trim hair on top of nose and under eyes to make eyes visible and mustache prominent. Leave goatee full length. Scissor top knot hair just enough to keep out from in front of the eyes. Shaving around genitals, rectum and belly aids in cleanliness. Shave under the pads of the feet, but do not make Poodle feet. Leave tail full and natural.
Wednesday, June 13, 2007
The advent of such products as Advantage and Frontline has revolutionized flea control. There is no excuse for any dog having fleas. These products can be used on puppies as young as 6 weeks. If you want to save money, buy a package for a 50 to 100 LB dog and apply the liquid as directed with a 3 cc syringe. Get correct dosages and syringes from your vet. If you are in an area with ticks be sure to get products that kill ticks too. Some even kill mosquitoes that are the vectors of heartworm.
Tuesday, June 12, 2007
You cannot keep your puppy in a "sterile bubble" and his socialization needs during this time are extremely important also. It is a balancing act. The best advice is to avoid taking him places that dogs of unknown origin frequent, such as rest stops on freeways or dog parks. Other new puppies are high risk also. Your pup needs to meet a variety of people and other dogs, be taken places in the car etc. It is fine for him to play with your friends or relatives dogs who have been well immunized and are healthy. Most vets will agree that your pup can go to Puppy classes after the age of 16 weeks. Puppy classes, and later regular obedience classes, are highly recommended. A well-trained dog has a good ego, and feels secure and loved.
Monday, June 11, 2007
7. IMMUNIZATIONS AND WORMING
Your pup was wormed on ___________ with (brand) to eliminate roundworms. Pup was given (state brand of vaccine and diseases) on________________. Your pup needs to be taken to your vet within a week for a physical exam and a schedule for further immunizations and wormings. Roundworms are the most common type of worms for puppies to have. There are several other types of worms in addition to roundworms, that your vet may want to test for.
The most worrisome disease that is being immunized against is Parvovirus. Ask your vet about its prevalence in your area and for guidance on puppy socialization since exposing your puppy to other dogs can make him at risk to contracting disease.. The reason the pup needs a series of shots, is because antibodies from the mother's milk interfere with the immunizations effectiveness. The antibodies wane between 8 and 16 weeks and there is no way of telling when that will be in a particular pup. There is likely to be a "window of time" when the antibody level drops and the pup gets his next shot. The pup is susceptible during this window of time, and if exposed may get the disease. Parvovirus is passed in the infected stools, urine, vomit, and saliva, of dogs harboring the virus, also, it is airborne, is very hardy, and can last in the environment for a year or more.
Sunday, June 10, 2007
6. HOUSE TRAINING:
Here, as in all training, consistency and positive reinforcement are of paramount importance in the speed of your success. Do not expect too much too fast. Remember that it takes most dogs 100-200 repetitions to learn a new behavior. The routine is fairly simple. Dogs love consistency, structure and routine. Carry the pup outside as soon as he awakens, after meals and every hour while awake. Soon you will learn the "signals" when he wants to go. Put him down outside (teacup toys can be taught to eliminate in a litter pan) and when he squats to urinate use a word such as "tinkle" or "go" followed by immediate praise when he goes. Do the same for his bowel movement and before you know it you will have a dog that goes on command? It is most important that you do not just put him outside but are there to praise. It is a good idea not to play with the pup in the yard at first, so that he learns its primary function. When you cannot keep an eye on the puppy, put him in his crate. Indoors, there is no value in scolding a pup for an accident after the fact. After a couple of weeks, if you catch him in the act, grab him up quickly, say no sternly and take him outside. If you are quick enough, you may stop him in midstream and he will continue outside and get his praise. DO NOT SPANK OR RUB HIS NOSE IN THE ACCIDENT. The most a pup will learn from this is to not go where you can see him. This is not only useless and disgusting but also harmful. For accidents, clean up the mess out of the pup's view. First, soak up the accident with an old towel or rag, then soak the area with Nature's Miracle or a similar product and soak that up in like manner. ALLOW THE PUP IN ONLY A SMALL SPACE IN YOUR HOME UNTIL HE CAN BE TRUSTED. ONCE GIVEN FREEDOM IT IS VERY DIFFICULT TO RESTRICT SPACE.
A PUP'S TYPICAL DAY:
6 am: Carry him out to relieve himself, give lavish praise. Allow him to
eat in the kitchen. Out again. In to play and snuggle. Falls asleep. Put in
9 am: Pup wakes up, open crate and carry him outside. Praise and bring into
kitchen and play with owner and toys. In crate again.
3 pm: Same, but practice grooming
6 pm: Same, except feed, out and play.
9 or 10pm: Out, play and tuck in for night
Saturday, June 09, 2007
5. CRATE TRAINING:
As mentioned earlier, a crate or kennel is the best method of controlling the puppy and preventing accidents and destructive behavior. Crating is not cruel or inhumane and is a natural haven because it fits into the puppy's den concept. Crates come in plastic or in wire cages. We prefer plastic as they are warmer, darker and free of drafts. Get a crate that is just big enough for the puppy and make bedding out of a worn T-shirt or blanket (towels do not make good bedding as claws get caught in them) and place at least one stuffed toy in it. (pups love to be packed in). If the crate is too big, the pup may use one end for a "potty" place. As he outgrows the puppy crate, get one that will be suitable for his adult size. He needs to be able to stand up and turn around in it. The crate can be used as his bed for the rest of his life. Do not give in and take the pup to bed with you even once. If you must, put the pup, crate and all on your bed. It is not advisable to let a dog, even a grown one sleep on the bed with you. This may be one factor in the separation anxiety syndrome seen so much today. If you leave the crate available to him, he will often crawl into it to sleep on his own, or use it as a refuge when the children get too much for him. Teach children to respect his "space." If the pup falls asleep elsewhere in the house, pick him up and lock him in his crate. The crate is a handy and safe way to travel in the car. Start off with no more than 4 hours in a crate for a pup except at night. Do not leave food or water in the crate, but you can feed in the crate and remove dish. The crate should represent a happy secure place for the dog and never be used as punishment. NEVER OPEN THE CRATE DOOR WHEN THE PUP IS SCREAMING. This just rewards the screaming behavior. WAIT FOR 30 SECONDS OF SILENCE before opening the door.
Friday, June 08, 2007
4. BITING AND CHEWING:
All pups bite and chew in play. Teach the pup to bite softly by loudly yelling "ouch" when he bites too hard and he will learn to bite softly. Some trainers prefer the command "no bite". Be careful of having puppies in your face. They do not discriminate between your finger and your nose. During teething, they will chew on practically anything. Your job is to provide chew toys and praise the pup when he uses them. Keep shoes and other unacceptable chewing objects picked up. Put Bitter Apple (available in pet stores) on phone and electric cords. Puppies, like human babies, explore their environment by putting anything and everything in their mouths. Make sure that they have a variety of safe toys to chew on.
Thursday, June 07, 2007
3. THOSE FIRST FEW DAYS:
Your puppy is ready to learn at 4 weeks but teaching and learning require frequent repetitions of the same behavior, 100 to 200 times. The first days can be very trying for both the puppy and new owner and is similar to the frustrations felt when bringing a new infant home. The main challenges are crate training and house training. The main ones facing the puppy are learning to sleep by himself without the warmth and comfort of his littermates and finding out what his place is in the "pecking order" of your household. Remember that pups need a great deal of sleep so do not allow children to overtire him. Your pup is already used to a crate, "his den," but may cry and scream out of loneliness. Keep the crate beside or even on your bed for a while. Place some unwashed item of your clothing in with him along with a stuffed toy or two and a chew toy. The sterilized hollowed bones stuffed with peanut butter in the middle will entertain a pup for hours. You can also feed the pup in his crate. but do not leave food or water in the crate. NEVER REMOVE THE PUP FROM HIS CRATE WHILE HE IS CRYING OR SCREAMING. This just rewards the behavior. Make sure he is quiet for at least 30 seconds before opening the door. The first week or so, he may have to be taken out to eliminate once or twice during the night. Don't jump out of the bed on the first peep; wait to see if he is serious. Sometimes just saying a few words will reassure him and you will not have to get up.
Wednesday, June 06, 2007
2. FEEDING: (Make sure that you check the list of Dog food brands that are affected by the recall!)
Feed only a dry PREMIUM dog food made especially for puppies, for example, Science Diet. Premium dry foods give solid nutrition and the hardest smallest stools. This not only facilitates pickup but a hard stool massages the anal glands and seems to prevent problems. There are other very good brands - check with your vet if you have concerns. If you want to switch, do so very gradually over a 10-day period or the pup will get diarrhea.
We urge you not to use grocery store brands of dog food as the ingredients used are of inferior quality. Do you want your dog getting its protein from "chicken feathers and heads" or from backs and giblets? Premium dog foods may seem more expensive but the dog consumes less, the food is highly digestible and there is less stool. Price wise, it evens out.
Feed large pups twice a day and tiny ones 3 times a day. Offer DRY food, as much as they will eat in 15 minutes and then pick up the food. Do not moisten or add canned food. Leaving food down all the time is not recommended because studies have shown the puppies fed this way consume 20% more food and this may cause bone defects and obesity in later life. It is better to have your pup a little underweight. Make no fuss about eating, it is a neutral and natural activity and should not be encouraged or discouraged. The "clean plate club" does not apply to dogs. Except in rare cases of illness, the dog will eat exactly what it needs with the above method. Pups will normally skip meals as will adults. KEEP FRESH WATER AVAILABLE AT ALL TIMES EXCEPT WHILE IN CRATE.
Avoid feeding table scraps (if you must, they should not consist of more than 10% of the diet). REMEMBER, THE SMALLER THE DOG, THE LESS THE TREATS. Do not feed commercial dog biscuits as training rewards. A very small portion of Jerky will do. Watch the intake of rawhide chew toys. GIVE TREATS ONLY AS A REWARD FOR OBEDIENCE. DO NOT GIVE ANY BONES EXCEPT STERILIZED BEEF KNUCKLE BONES. DO NOT SUPPLEMENT WITH VITAMINS, COTTAGE CHEESE, MILK OR EGGS. These old beliefs are not only unnecessary with today's balanced Premium foods, but may cause a host of skeletal and cartilage defects. They may also decrease phosphorus, iron, zinc and copper absorption and may cause crusty and scaly skin. CHOCOLATE, ONIONS, GARLIC AND CAFFEINE ARE HIGHLY TOXIC TO DOGS.
Tuesday, June 05, 2007
Your puppy has been given the finest possible start in life because it has been:
- Born of fine tempered, healthy parents.
- Wormed and fully immunized for its age with "state of the art" vaccine.
- Kept indoors, warm, clean and free of pests.
- Fed the highest quality diet.
- Provided with veterinary supervision.
- Had dew claws removed for safety
- Given plenty of loving attention
- Provided with training experiences and socialization that coincide with its developmental stages.
As responsible breeders, we are always interested in feedback on our puppies and are eager to answer questions, discuss training procedures or just provide support to the pup's new family. It is only from your feedback, positive or negative. that we can judge the type of dog that we are producing.
Monday, June 04, 2007
Starlo's Ginger Snap 'n' Jim Dandy's puppies are now weeks old! Here they are with their eyes open!!
Wednesday, May 16, 2007
Tuesday, May 08, 2007
Monday, May 07, 2007
Sunday, May 06, 2007
On Friday, May 4, Starlo's Noel gave birth to seven tiny little cockapoos! Debbie was away on a puppy delivery, so her daughter Darla helped Noel with the birthing. Noel now has 2 sable 'n' white males, 1 sable male, 1 black male, 2 red males, and 1 chocolate 'n' white female.
Friday, May 04, 2007
Starlo's Noel went into labor this morning and seven new Starlo's Cockapoos were born! I received this email from Debbie:
Thursday, May 03, 2007
I know you know but ...........Sara is such a wonderful dog.........she travels so well and I am always getting stopped and asked about her..........she is always right with one of us never misses a thing! Hope all is well with you and your family!!!
Michelle Adelman ~ Bend, OR
May 2, 2007
Note: Sara is the daughter of Starlo's Creamy Oreo & Starlo's Classic Sally: Sara and Gilli are sister and brother!!!
Wednesday, May 02, 2007
Harold & Carolyn Buchman ~ Torrance, CA
May 2, 2007
Note: Gilli is the son of Starlo's Creamy Oreo & Starlo's Classic Sally
Friday, April 20, 2007
Buck and I had a successful trip delivering puppies along I5 ending up in West Lake Village, CA. We had a wonderful time at the Montanari's. Josie is the president of the CCA (Cockapoo Club of America). On our way home to Christmas Valley, OR., we stopped off in Taft, CA to visit our Aunt and Uncle and cousins.
Friday, April 13, 2007