Update to www.starloscockapoos.com

Hi Everyone,

I am sending this email to you to let you know that your picture(s) that you sent of your Starlos Cockapoo has been added to the website and to share others with you. The following list includes the newest additions:

· Gus and Max running in sync on the Cockapoo Families Page

· Sully ‘n’ Fenway on the Red ‘n’ White Page

· Running Bear ‘n’ Pokie on the Cockapoo Families Page

· Penguin, Honey, Comet, Gus & Max on the Cockapoo Families Page

· Dash Maxfield on the Chocolate ‘n’ White Page

· Baloo Nicholisen on the Black ‘n’ Tan Page

· Luke Korman on the Buff Page

· Abby & Roxie Dillon on the Cockapoo Families Page

· Boo, Cooper, Hershey & Sully on the Cocker Spaniel Page

· Jia Sigona on the Buff ‘n’ White Page

· Zoe on the Black ‘n’ White Page

· Talula Gocke on the White Page

· Henry Yalcin on the Buff ‘n’ White Page

· Lucy Beiderman on the Sable ‘n’ White Page

· Chloe Mako on the Red Page

Other links of interest:

Litter Announcements

Available Puppies

Starlo’s Paw Prints Blog

Guestbook Page

Janey Loree

Webmaster

For available puppy information, contact Owner/Breeder Debbie Cowdrey.

To view her website...go to www.starloscockapoos.com.

Starlos Kennels

Home of Starlo’s CCA American Cockapoos ^TM

Starlo's Cockapoos, PO Box 2, Christmas Valley, OR 97641

Update on Starlo's Fancy Fanny's 'n' Starlos Lil Jingle Bells Girls...

Cool Slideshows!

The newest little stars at Starlos Ranch include three adorable little girls. Their parents, Starlo's Fancy Fanny and Starlo's Lil Jingle Bell, couldn't be prouder! The girls are 15 days old already!! And as Jan from The Poodle (and Dog) Blog has pointed out...remember to take care of your dogs this 4th of July, be aware if they are frightened of the fireworks or not!

Available Starlo's Puppies as of June 28, 2007...

Cool Slideshows!

Puppy Care - Part 15 - Recommended Reading...

15. RECOMMENDED READING:
All books and tapes can be ordered from Amazon.com through the Cockapoo Club of America Website and the Club gets a portion of the sale. www.cockapooclub.com

"THE PUPPY REPORT" by Larry Shook, $4.95

"The Art of Raising a Puppy", by the Monks of New Skeet, $21.95

"Cockapoo*", by Mary D. Foley**, $14.95 plus $2.95 S/H

*Starlo's Cockapoos are pictured in this very first book about Cockapoos!

**Mary D. Foley is the founder of the Cockapoo Club of America

Puppy Care - Part 14 - Preventing Anxiety...

14. PREVENTING DOG "SEPARATION ANXIETY" SYNDROME:

To get your pup used to staying alone, leave him in his crate and go off for varying periods of time, (whether you need to or not), starting with short periods and extending the time. Do not make a big fuss over him when leaving or returning (this is also the way to treat submissive urination). Turning on the radio to classical or soft music or a talk show is comforting.

Owners, especially of small cute fuzzy, appealing dogs like Cockapoos tend to forget they are dogs and use the dog to satisfy their need to nurture something to an excessive degree. The owner may have his/her own need satisfied but the dog sometimes becomes a spoiled, overfed, finicky, overly anxious dog with few boundaries. He will not be welcome anywhere because he constantly bothers everyone for attention, marks in their house, mounts peoples legs etc. The owner(s) create a situation where they feel they cannot go anywhere without their precious pooch, and limit their lives since dogs cannot go everywhere. You all know people like this and it is your choice about whether you want to be one of them or show real love for your dog by training him and teaching him manners.

Puppy Care - Part 13 - The "Come" Command...

13. THE "COME" COMMAND:

This is the most important command your dog will ever learn and obeying it may save his life. Start out calling your pup "Rover, come" in a small space over a short distance. Praise for coming, sometimes giving a treat and praise, sometimes just praise. Remember Psychology 101, in which Skinner's rats responded and learned better by a schedule of variable and random reinforcement? We believe it applies to dogs too. NEVER, NEVER call the pup
to you to scold him, put him in his crate, groom him or any other mildly unpleasant activity. Always make sure the "coming" results in a pleasant activity. When you need to do something to the pup, go and get him. Do these simple things consistently and you will have a dog that will turn around and come to you in the middle of chasing a rabbit!

Puppy Care - Part 12 - Safety...

12. SAFETY:

Puppies seem to have a natural affinity for electric wires and telephone cords. You can rub Bitter Apple on the wires and cords if he is around them. It tastes terrible and can also be sprayed on other items that have become a problem. It is also useful on stool if the pup tends to eat the stool. (Very natural for dogs, but disgusting to us). Very soon after getting your puppy, fit him with a buckle type collar and a lightweight 6-ft leash. Collars are only a hazard if they are put on too loosely and the pup can get his jaw caught in it. They should be tight enough so that you can slip only two fingers under it. Again, praise when he walks even a step with the leash on and he will soon get the hang of it. Once he does, occasionally take the pup out to eliminate with his leash on. Do not push, drag or pull the pup. NEVER, NEVER let your dog loose on city streets, no matter how obedient you think he is. It takes but an instant for even a well trained dog to dash across a street after an irresistible cat and be hit by a passing car. Several human foods are lethal when ingested by a dog. It would take 2 ounces of Baker's CHOCOLATE to kill a 20 LB dog. The smaller the dog the less it would take. The same with caffeine as in regular coffee or espresso. ONIONS and their relatives, garlic and chives can also be deadly. MOLDY WALNUTS and ALCOHOL can also be lethal. Seeing your dog drunk and staggering from drinking your beer is not funny or humorous, but most likely will be lethal. Common household plants such as mistletoe, holly, hibiscus, dieffenbachia, ivy, azalea, yew and the runoff from oleander are toxic. Cleaning products, disinfectants, pesticides and rodent killers are toxic if ingested and airborne sprays such as Listerine while wet. Perfumes and colognes, antifreeze, adhesives and glue are toxic and dangerous. Toys with small parts can be a choking hazard and are dangerous as well. Be sure that all members of the family know this.

Starlo's Fancy Fanny 'n' Starlo's Lil Jingle Bell's Litter...

Cool Slideshows!

Puppy Care - Part 11 - Toys and Treats...

11. TOYS AND TREATS:

Puppies love soft squeak toys, rawhide bones, sterilized hollow bones in which you can put an elusive piece of meat or peanut butter, cows hooves, tug of war toys, balls and pigs ears. We do not recommend pigs ears as they are costly, too easily and rapidly eaten, adding unneeded protein to the diet. There are differences of opinion about playing tug of war. Some authorities feel that it makes the dog aggressive. The general guidance is to stand up so
that you are in the dominant position and so that you can control the game. Occasionally the dog may loose a baby tooth that was ready to come out anyway. Fairly gentle play and letting the dog win is OK. NEVER PULL THE PUP OFF THE FLOOR BY ITS TEETH. As a training reward, small bites of beef jerky or liver treats are good. Remember that the dog feels just as rewarded by a small piece as he does from the entire stick. Always make the pup do something to earn the treat. Treats of any kind, along with table food, should not comprise more than 10% of the pup's total dietary intake. i.e., The smaller the dog, the smaller the amount of treats.

Puppy Care - Part 10 - Bathing and Grooming...

10. BATHING AND GROOMING:

Always comb the pup thoroughly before bathing to assure there are no mats. Bathe your puppy only when necessary to keep from drying out the skin. Once every 2 weeks is probably sufficient. Use a puppy "no more tears" shampoo. Avoid getting shampoo in the eyes and ears, wash in tepid water, rinse well and towel dry all the while speaking softly and calmly to the pup. You can blow dry on medium but get him used to the noise first. Have the dryer on at some distance and give him a couple of treats, then gradually move it toward him. Start with the lowest setting at his rear (they hate it in their faces) and all the time talking to him soothingly and praising him for holding still (help from another person is nice).

Comb your pup daily, or at least twice a week, using a metal comb that has teeth long enough to reach down to the skin. Get him used to having ears inspected and cleaned and fingers in mouth in preparation for brushing teeth later. Praise him when he accepts the combing quietly. Make yourself and the pup comfortable when you do this. You seated in a chair and pup on table or lap. Use table at least occasionally to prepare for a groomer if you intend to use one. Be sure to clean ears with a Q-tip and pull hair out of ear canals. Ask a breeder or a groomer to show you how to do this and also how to trim the toenails). If you get an unpleasant odor or dark wax or the pup shakes its head, it is a good idea to have him checked by a vet. Good preventive cleaning of the ears is extremely important. Grooming is a good time to inspect ears, coat, skin, genitals and to trim nails. After the pup has gotten used to being groomed, introduce a "clipper" noise. If you do not have clippers try an electrical razor or toothbrush. Choose a groomer by recommendation only, and if you can, use one that keeps the dog only a few hours. It is a good idea to bring the pup to a groomer at least once for a bath so he gets used to someone else handling him. If you decide to have your Cockapoo clipped be very specific about what you want and write it down. Most groomers are not familiar with grooming Cockapoos so they do not look like a Cocker or a Poodle. Unless you tell a groomer to scissor the coat to a certain length, they will usually do it the fastest way and use the clippers with a half-inch guard and you have a shaved dog.

Following is a suggested way to groom a Cockapoo:

Leave all hair naturally long (preferred) or if scissoring coat leave it at least 2 inches long. Trim hair on top of nose and under eyes to make eyes visible and mustache prominent. Leave goatee full length. Scissor top knot hair just enough to keep out from in front of the eyes. Shaving around genitals, rectum and belly aids in cleanliness. Shave under the pads of the feet, but do not make Poodle feet. Leave tail full and natural.

Puppy Care - Part 9 - Flea and Tick Control...

9. FLEA AND TICK CONTROL

The advent of such products as Advantage and Frontline has revolutionized flea control. There is no excuse for any dog having fleas. These products can be used on puppies as young as 6 weeks. If you want to save money, buy a package for a 50 to 100 LB dog and apply the liquid as directed with a 3 cc syringe. Get correct dosages and syringes from your vet. If you are in an area with ticks be sure to get products that kill ticks too. Some even kill mosquitoes that are the vectors of heartworm.

Puppy Care - Part 8 - Socialization...

8. SOCIALIZATION

You cannot keep your puppy in a "sterile bubble" and his socialization needs during this time are extremely important also. It is a balancing act. The best advice is to avoid taking him places that dogs of unknown origin frequent, such as rest stops on freeways or dog parks. Other new puppies are high risk also. Your pup needs to meet a variety of people and other dogs, be taken places in the car etc. It is fine for him to play with your friends or relatives dogs who have been well immunized and are healthy. Most vets will agree that your pup can go to Puppy classes after the age of 16 weeks. Puppy classes, and later regular obedience classes, are highly recommended. A well-trained dog has a good ego, and feels secure and loved.

Puppy Care - Part 7 - Immunizations and Worming...

7. IMMUNIZATIONS AND WORMING

Your pup was wormed on ___________ with (brand) to eliminate roundworms. Pup was given (state brand of vaccine and diseases) on________________. Your pup needs to be taken to your vet within a week for a physical exam and a schedule for further immunizations and wormings. Roundworms are the most common type of worms for puppies to have. There are several other types of worms in addition to roundworms, that your vet may want to test for.

The most worrisome disease that is being immunized against is Parvovirus. Ask your vet about its prevalence in your area and for guidance on puppy socialization since exposing your puppy to other dogs can make him at risk to contracting disease.. The reason the pup needs a series of shots, is because antibodies from the mother's milk interfere with the immunizations effectiveness. The antibodies wane between 8 and 16 weeks and there is no way of telling when that will be in a particular pup. There is likely to be a "window of time" when the antibody level drops and the pup gets his next shot. The pup is susceptible during this window of time, and if exposed may get the disease. Parvovirus is passed in the infected stools, urine, vomit, and saliva, of dogs harboring the virus, also, it is airborne, is very hardy, and can last in the environment for a year or more.

Puppy Care - Part 6 - House Training...

6. HOUSE TRAINING:

Here, as in all training, consistency and positive reinforcement are of paramount importance in the speed of your success. Do not expect too much too fast. Remember that it takes most dogs 100-200 repetitions to learn a new behavior. The routine is fairly simple. Dogs love consistency, structure and routine. Carry the pup outside as soon as he awakens, after meals and every hour while awake. Soon you will learn the "signals" when he wants to go. Put him down outside (teacup toys can be taught to eliminate in a litter pan) and when he squats to urinate use a word such as "tinkle" or "go" followed by immediate praise when he goes. Do the same for his bowel movement and before you know it you will have a dog that goes on command? It is most important that you do not just put him outside but are there to praise. It is a good idea not to play with the pup in the yard at first, so that he learns its primary function. When you cannot keep an eye on the puppy, put him in his crate. Indoors, there is no value in scolding a pup for an accident after the fact. After a couple of weeks, if you catch him in the act, grab him up quickly, say no sternly and take him outside. If you are quick enough, you may stop him in midstream and he will continue outside and get his praise. DO NOT SPANK OR RUB HIS NOSE IN THE ACCIDENT. The most a pup will learn from this is to not go where you can see him. This is not only useless and disgusting but also harmful. For accidents, clean up the mess out of the pup's view. First, soak up the accident with an old towel or rag, then soak the area with Nature's Miracle or a similar product and soak that up in like manner. ALLOW THE PUP IN ONLY A SMALL SPACE IN YOUR HOME UNTIL HE CAN BE TRUSTED. ONCE GIVEN FREEDOM IT IS VERY DIFFICULT TO RESTRICT SPACE.

A PUP'S TYPICAL DAY:

6 am: Carry him out to relieve himself, give lavish praise. Allow him to
eat in the kitchen. Out again. In to play and snuggle. Falls asleep. Put in
crate:

9 am: Pup wakes up, open crate and carry him outside. Praise and bring into
kitchen and play with owner and toys. In crate again.

Noon: Same

3 pm: Same, but practice grooming

6 pm: Same, except feed, out and play.

9 or 10pm: Out, play and tuck in for night